At the conclusion of London Fashion Week, actor Richard E Grant made a notable appearance on the Burberry catwalk, donning an olive tweed coat that reflected a significant evolution in his fashion journey since his film debut in Withnail and I, 38 years earlier. The event took place at Tate Britain on Monday, where a host of well-known figures from the entertainment industry, including Jason Isaacs from White Lotus and award-winning actress Lesley Manville, attended. Naomi Campbell, while present, assumed a less prominent role among the other distinguished guests.

Daniel Lee, the creative director of Burberry, expressed his thoughts on the inspiration behind the collection, referencing the 2023 film Saltburn, in which Grant also appeared. Speaking to The Guardian, Lee stated, “Bohemian people who dressed in this really eccentric way for dinner and had crazy parties, the way the whole thing was super twisted,” highlighting a blend of eccentricity in the fashion showcased.

The venue itself, with its vaulted galleries transformed to resemble a grand but dissolute country home, set the scene for the catwalk presentation. A front row comprising celebrities including Skepta, Ian Wright, and Damian Lewis was nestled on authentically worn sofas, contrasting with the glitzy ambiance typically associated with fashion showcases. The collection included elements such as dressing-gown coats and velvet smoking jackets, which appeared to pay homage to Grant’s character from Saltburn. Jodhpurs noted in the designs possibly referenced the recent British comedic sensation, Rivals.

Burberry has faced challenges in the market, including its fall from the FTSE 100 in September 2022. The brand’s CEO, Joshua Schulman, has been steering a turnaround strategy, aiming to reposition Burberry as a leading global luxury outerwear entity. This strategy emphasises a return to their heritage with trench coats, check scarves, and umbrellas, while seeking to appeal to a broader audience. Analysts have responded positively to this approach, though there remains a need for high-profile fashion shows to maintain the brand’s prestigious image.

Lee has also developed a series of Valentine’s Day-themed short films for Burberry, placing the brand within a romanticised version of British culture. These films feature light-hearted themes illustrated with quintessentially British elements, contrasting with the darker, more romantic aesthetic presented during the fashion show.

The show also showcased various outerwear styles, including quilted jackets, parkas, and pea coats, all integral to Burberry’s collection. The signature Burberry check was prominently displayed on oversized scarves and leather gloves, while both Grant and Isaacs carried umbrellas, enhancing visibility for the brand’s iconic accessory.

Amidst a backdrop of market jitters and shifting industry dynamics, there have been ongoing speculations regarding Lee’s future at Burberry, since he took the helm in 2022. In response to inquiries about his position, Lee affirmed his dedication to the role, noting, “It’s an honour. Things are definitely improving, I think we are in a really positive place. There is a stronger sense of togetherness in the team now.”

Recent indicators suggest an upswing for Burberry, as its share price has doubled since its low in September, alongside promising sales over the pre-Christmas trading period. Should the current trajectory continue, analysts anticipate the possibility of Burberry regaining its position in the FTSE 100 in the coming reshuffle in March, marking a potential turnaround in the brand’s fortunes.

Source: Noah Wire Services