The UK faces a pressing need to modernise its approach to fashion regulation, as detailed in a recent white paper from the campaign group Fashion Declares and law firm Bates Wells. This report encapsulates a growing concern that without significant reform, the country could lag behind global efforts to mitigate the environmental impacts of its textile sector. As governmental bodies across Europe and beyond intensify their regulatory frameworks, the UK risks becoming a haven for fast fashion and unsustainable practices that undermine both economic stability and environmental integrity.

The white paper advocates for three pivotal reforms. The first is the closure of a de minimis tax exemption, which currently permits the entry of low-cost fashion items without import duties. This loophole has been heavily exploited by ultra-fast fashion brands such as Shein, which reportedly evaded £150 million in taxes in the UK in 2023. As domestic brands are burdened with full tax obligations, such discrepancies effectively skew the marketplace, empowering an influx of disposable fashion that harms both local retailers and environmental health.

Second, the proposal for an Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) system aims to make brands accountable not only for the initial sale of their products but also for their post-consumer lifecycle. Under this scheme, companies would pay fees correlating to the environmental impact of their garments, incentivising the design of durable and repairable clothing. Such accountability can serve to alleviate the staggering 336,000 tonnes of clothing discarded annually in the UK—a figure that starkly highlights the urgency for change in this sector.

The final recommendation is the introduction of Digital Product Passports, a system that would provide real-time transparency about a garment’s materials, production conditions, and overall sustainability. This initiative aligns with forthcoming EU regulations, which are poised to enforce similar requirements, thereby setting a new standard for ethical consumption. By using QR codes that offer instant insights into a product’s history, consumers can make informed choices that reflect their values, paving the way for a more circular economy.

The push for such reforms comes as a growing recognition of the ethical complexities embedded in global supply chains. Baroness Lola Young, a noted advocate for sustainability in the fashion industry, emphasised the need to address the deep-rooted inequalities inherent in these systems. “You can’t tell me that some of the practices that are rampant in this industry would be the same if it were white folks we were talking about,” she asserted during the white paper launch. This important perspective underscores the necessity of embedding social justice alongside environmental concerns within regulatory frameworks.

As the white paper is disseminated among stakeholders and parliamentarians, its authors hope to ignite a broader dialogue that would lead to actionable policy reforms. According to Safia Minney, founder of Fashion Declares, the recommendations are not merely wish lists but urgent calls for collaborative action aimed at fostering a more sustainable industry in the UK. “By closing the de minimis customs threshold, mandating an Extended Producer Responsibility fee system, and introducing Digital Product Passports, the UK can create an effective policy and regulatory framework that incentivises responsible business practices,” she noted.

With the fast fashion industry under scrutiny globally, the UK’s regulatory lag poses not just a financial threat to local retailers but also a moral one. As the conversation about sustainability evolves, the need for actionable, comprehensive changes becomes increasingly critical. Without swift government intervention, the UK may squander its opportunity to emerge as a leader in sustainable fashion, ultimately allowing its economy to be downgraded to one defined by exploitation rather than innovation and responsibility.


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Source: Noah Wire Services