In October 2024, Chris Swales, a 54-year-old smoked salmon producer from Exning, Suffolk, found himself entangled in a complex web of fraud while searching for £37,000 worth of missing stock. The situation unfolded after Swales received an unsolicited email in August from a man named Patrick Moulin, who claimed to be representing Match, a French supermarket. He expressed interest in collaborating with Swales’s business, the Chapel & Swan Smokehouse, leading to large orders of smoked salmon that prompted Swales to adjust his team’s production schedule.

After months of hard work and multiple orders loaded and sent to a depot in Grimsby, Swales became concerned when payment for the delivered goods was delayed. Despite his initial optimism, the communication from Moulin dwindled, ultimately leading to a dead end when Swales contacted Match directly and learned that there was no buyer by that name.

Feeling alarmed, he travelled to an industrial estate in Walthamstow, London, where he believed the shipments might have been redirected. The atmosphere of the industrial area did not suggest a site for refrigerated food storage, and attempts to find answers were met with disdain, leaving Swales grappling with the reality that he had likely been defrauded. “I knew something was wrong,” Swales recounted. “But still I was thinking to myself, this is very, very odd. I mean, I’ve never heard of anyone stealing frozen smoked salmon before.”

His experience soon turned out to be part of a larger pattern of fraud affecting the UK food industry. By late October, news surfaced about the “Great Cheese Robbery,” where Neal’s Yard Dairy, renowned for its artisan cheese, fell victim to a similar scam. A fraudulent buyer posing as an agent for a major French retailer orchestrated an order for 22 tonnes of cheddar, valued at £300,000, and had it shipped to an undisclosed warehouse in London. By the time the deception was uncovered, it was too late to recover the stolen goods.

The story captured public attention, with Jamie Oliver cautioning his followers against the illicit trade of artisan cheese on social media. The audacious nature of these thefts struck a chord, illustrating a troubling trend in food crime that simultaneously amused and alarmed observers. This increase in food-related theft has been noted amidst a backdrop of rising prices and an escalating prevalence of organised crime targeting high-value food items. According to the British Standards Institute, 24% of supply-chain thefts in the UK in 2023 involved food, a figure that has increased significantly from prior years.

Criminologist Alice Rizzuti from the University of Hull noted that the post-Brexit landscape has made food businesses more vulnerable to what she describes as “European distribution fraud.” The reduction in cooperation between UK and EU regulatory bodies has exacerbated challenges in monitoring and tracking fraudulent activities.

As conversations about food crime intensified, the impact on smaller producers became evident. Swales began receiving calls from others in the industry who had experienced similar scams, including a fellow smoked salmon producer who faced bankruptcy after losing £80,000. John Gill, from Coston Hall Dairy in Norfolk, detailed how his company was targeted through identity theft, with criminals posing as his business to place large orders for various products across the country.

The operations behind these scams demonstrated a high level of sophistication. Gill’s experience highlighted how the fraudsters utilised legitimate company information and even personal photographs to gain trust. “They sounded very genuine. They knew what they were talking about. They knew the industry,” he stated.

In response to the surge in food crime, the National Food Crime Unit has intensified its alerts to the industry, while the Metropolitan Police made several arrests related to these incidents in late 2023 and early 2024. Nonetheless, many victims, including Swales, expressed frustrations with the police response to their reports of fraud, with Swales stating that he found the lack of action staggering and incredulous.

The series of sophisticated food thefts has prompted a reevaluation amongst independent food producers about their security and operational practices. Swales articulated a shift in his business approach, stating, “I’ve learned to be much more cautious… but now I’m just very suspicious.” Others in the industry share similar sentiments, acknowledging the need for heightened vigilance while also emphasising the importance of maintaining trust in business relationships.

Despite the turbulent period, Swales found a sliver of optimism, remarking that the “rash of fine-food fraud recently points to the quality of food production in the UK these days.” As fraud within the food sector continues to evolve, a balance between trust and caution will be essential for producers aiming to navigate this challenging landscape.

Source: Noah Wire Services